Bob is happy.
Be like Bob.
I always wanted to learn to surf. To succumb to that tidal pull of the sea, and to round each day with the taste of salt on some munificent breaking wave.
To live a life more liquid.
But I have too much dryness in me now, or so it seems.
Whenever the opportunity has come up to actually hire a board or take a class, I always seem to have something more pressing to do.
Perhaps its my fear of sharks.
Or perhaps its more a fear of letting the wave take me. Thats why surfing is almost a philosophy, a lifestyle. The wave will take you.
Its never too late my friends say. And they are right of course.