Port Fairy began its life as a whaling and sealing port in the early 19th century. In the 1840s there was what is somewhat euphemistically referred to as the Eumeralla Wars between European landowners and the original Gunditmara peoples of the area
It was (like so much of the Australian frontier wars of the time) more of a massacre than a war. An estimated 6,500 first nations people were killed during the ‘war’ compared to 80 European settlers. You can read more about the conflicts here.
Today, the port is a popular tourist destination becoming particularly gregarious each March when they hold a huge folk festival.
The weather has remained mostly inclement. A cold, windy stay inside and watch Netflix affair with brief teasing breaks of FOMO sunshine.
So we decided to ground ourselves here for 2 nights (because…laundry > living space).
We are staying at the Southcombe van park, a huuuuge park that, apart from a transient sprinkling of other offseason travellers, we have all to ourselves.
Despite the squalls, we have done a lot of exploring on foot. Out to the wild south coast to watch some pretty exciting surfing, then around the wetlands and then, when sufficiently windswept, into the port town itself to lust after Hamptons style bazillion dollar holiday cottages and consume lashings of hot spiced lentil soup and coffee in the local cafes.
There will be flatus.
Tomorrow we have the option of proceeding along the coast to another port town: Portland, or turning North and casting our net inland. We have decided to decide at the intersection.
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