In my next life I hope to be a surfer dude.
I will have long hair and seldom wear shoes.
I will travel to India in search of myself and return disillusioned and broke.
I will travel to interesting sea-swept places in a surf blue VW camper van with a clapped out engine and a kitschy dreamcatcher hanging from the rear vision mirror.
I will live off vegan curries and simple thoughts and campfire stories.

And when I get old I will simply be a vintage-cool surfer dude out for a morning surf.

Sliding a wave removes our brains out of the ordinary and slips us into the extraordinary of being there now – no more worries about mortgages or strife of being poor or rich. When you enter the domain of an ocean cylinder, that moment, those split seconds belong to the Zen part of just being. Period.

Bill Hamilton